Climbing Temple IV, looking out across Tikal and seeing the other temples poking out from the surrounding jungle, it's hard to envision what this place must have looked like when it was an active city, or to recognise that this isn't primeval jungle but a
post-apocalyptic landscape.

“Deep they delved us, high they built us, fair they wrought us, but they are gone.”
Of course, the Mayan people aren't gone; one of the nice things about Guatemala is that, unlike Australia and much of the Americas, the native culture still dominates in most places. Our guide was Mayan, and Mayan art and styles still have a very strong presence in the cities and towns. There are still ceremonies at some of the ancient sites; a syncretic mix of Catholicism and traditional beliefs.

Still, there is something eerie about Tikal and the other once-great cities of the jungle, abandoned in a way few cities are. The fall of the Roman Empire didn't see Rome itself abandoned; Mexico City thrives on the site of Tenochtitlan. But Tikal was left for the jungle to reclaim, a thousand years of history passing it by, the reasons for its fall as much a mystery to the modern Guatemalans as it is to anyone else.

It's hard not to appreciate the skill of the city's architects. The natural cooling and ventilation built into its design still function; a constant cool breeze passes through the plazas, taking the edge off the heat and humidity of the surrounding jungle.
Of course, the greatest mystery of Tikal is this: Why, in 1977, when the Guatemalan Civil War was ongoing, when the site was still largely isolated from the outside world and only partially excavated, why did George Lucas feel the need to go there to film a few establishing shots for a movie otherwise shot entirely in England and Tunisia?
(The interior of the Yavin IV temples were shot entirely on London sound-stages – the real temples are completely solid with no inner chambers...)
I'm not saying I picked Tikal over other sites to visit like Chichen Itza
purely so I could pretend I was on Yavin IV visiting the Jedi Academy, but I'm not going to say that wasn't a factor in my choice.

If you plan on visiting Tikal – and it is well worth seeing in person – I'd recommend spending a few nights in the nearby town of Flores and dedicating a full day to the site. It is possible to book a day trip flying in from Guatemala City or Belize, but the flights can be unreliable, and it is going to lead to a rather rushed day. Besides, there are other ancient cities in the area like Uaxactun and Yaxha that are also well worth seeing, so giving yourself an extra day or so to see them too is a good plan.
As mentioned, the city's ancient ventilation system still keeps the city cooler than the surrounding area, but it is a very large area to cover on foot – bring extra water; you'll want it after climbing some of the pyramids. They don't let you actually climb the stone itself – thankfully; the 'staircases' are extremely steep, designed more as seats than as stairs - but several temples have wooden staircases so you can reach the top and take in the views.